The short answer
Much of the jewelry in an average drawer is costume jewelry made from base metals with glass or plastic stones, and most of it sells for small amounts. Pieces in solid gold, silver or platinum have value from their metal content at least, and some signed costume pieces and antique or designer jewelry are collectible. Gemstones are where an accurate value needs a qualified professional. Use this guide to sort what you have before you decide what needs an appraisal.
Look for stamps and hallmarks
Use a magnifier or your phone's zoom, and check the inside of rings, near the clasp of necklaces and bracelets, and the posts or backs of earrings.
- Gold: karat marks such as 10K, 14K, 18K and 22K, or numbers that show purity in parts per thousand, such as 417, 585, 750 and 916.
- Silver: 925 or "Sterling" for sterling silver; marks such as 800 or 900 on some older or non-US silver.
- Platinum: marks such as PT950, PT900 or PLAT.
- Plated or filled: GP, GEP and HGE mean gold plated or electroplated; GF or a mark such as 1/20 12K GF means gold filled. These pieces carry only a thin layer of gold. Vermeil means gold over silver.
- Maker's marks: a name, initials or logo can identify the jeweler or designer, which matters for both fine and costume pieces.
A stamp is a clue, not proof. Marks wear away, are missing from some genuine pieces and are stamped onto fakes, so have a jeweler confirm any piece you think is precious metal.
Simple checks that do not damage anything
- Magnet: gold, silver and platinum are not magnetic. A piece that is strongly attracted to a magnet is probably base metal or plated, although clasps often contain a steel spring, so test the main part. Not being magnetic does not prove a piece is precious metal.
- Wear marks: look at edges and high points. A different-colored metal showing through suggests plating.
- Discoloration: green marks on the piece or on skin often point to copper-based metals, though some gold alloys can also mark skin.
Avoid acid tests, scratch tests and home diamond testers on pieces you plan to sell. They can damage jewelry, and simple testers can be fooled by some diamond simulants.
Gemstones need a professional
Colored glass, synthetic stones, simulants and natural gems can look alike, even to experienced eyes. Size, cut, color, clarity, and whether a stone is natural, treated or lab-grown all change its value, and none of these can be judged reliably from a photo. If a piece has stones you think may be real, have it examined by a qualified gemologist or independent appraiser. Keep any existing grading report from a gemological lab with the piece.
When to get a professional appraisal
Get a professional opinion for any piece that may be solid gold or platinum, is set with stones that could be real, is signed by a known jeweler or designer, is antique, or matters for insurance or an estate. Ask what kind of value you are getting. An insurance appraisal usually reflects replacement cost, which is often far higher than what you could sell the piece for. For selling, you want a realistic resale value. An independent appraiser who does not buy jewelry avoids a conflict of interest.
Scrap value or resale value?
Gold and silver buyers usually pay based on weight and purity, below the metal's market price. That can be the right choice for broken or plain pieces. A well-made, signed or attractive piece may be worth more as jewelry than as scrap, so compare both routes. Get more than one offer, and ask buyers to weigh and test the piece in front of you.
Costume jewelry can still sell
Signed costume jewelry from well-known makers, especially mid-20th-century pieces, has a collector market. Look for a signature on the back or the clasp. Complete sets, such as a matching necklace and earrings, and pieces with every stone intact are more appealing. Unsigned, mass-produced pieces usually sell best in mixed lots.
Photograph it for a scan and a listing
- Wipe the piece gently with a soft cloth. Avoid chemical cleaners, especially on pearls and soft stones.
- Photograph the whole piece on a plain, neutral background in soft daylight.
- Take close-ups of the stamps, the clasp and each stone.
- Add a photo with a ruler for scale, and note the weight if you have a small scale.
Where jewelry sells best
- Local jewelers and precious metal buyers: quick and in person, suited to scrap and plain precious metal. Compare several offers.
- Auction houses and estate jewelry dealers: better for valuable, signed or antique pieces.
- General marketplaces: good for costume, silver and mid-range pieces with clear photos and honest descriptions.
Common mistakes
- Selling gold by the piece without knowing its weight and purity.
- Assuming a stone is real, or fake, without having it checked.
- Accepting the first offer from a buyer who also gave the valuation.
Where WorthAI fits
WorthAI can help you sort a jewelry box: it identifies the likely type and maker from a photo and shows an estimated value range with the listings behind it. It does not test metal, grade gemstones or replace a professional appraisal. Use it to decide which pieces deserve a closer look, then take those to a qualified jeweler or appraiser.
Frequently asked questions
How can I tell if my jewelry is real gold?
Look for karat or purity stamps such as 14K or 585, check that the piece is not magnetic and look for a different metal showing through where it is worn. Then have a jeweler confirm it, because stamps can be faked or missing.
What does 925 mean on jewelry?
925 means sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver. It is usually stamped inside rings or near the clasp.
Should I get my jewelry appraised before selling?
Yes, for any piece that may be solid gold or platinum, has stones that could be real, or is signed or antique. Ask for a resale value, not an insurance replacement value.
Is costume jewelry worth anything?
Most sells for small amounts, often in lots, but signed pieces from well-known makers and complete sets in good condition can attract collectors.