Why the marks matter
Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5 percent silver, and pieces made from it carry value from their metal content, plus any value from the maker, design and condition. Silverplate has only a thin layer of silver over a base metal, so its value depends on design and condition alone. Most of the time, the marks stamped on the piece are the quickest way to tell them apart.
Where to look
Check the back of flatware handles, the underside of bowls, trays and candlesticks, the rim of the base, and inside lids. Use a magnifier or your phone's zoom, and angle a light across the surface so small stamps show up.
American and general sterling marks
- "Sterling" or 925: the most common marks for sterling silver on American pieces and on many pieces from other countries.
- Maker's mark: a name, initials or symbol identifying the silversmith or company. Many American makers also stamped a pattern name or number.
- Coin silver: some older American silver is marked "Coin" or "Pure Coin" and has a lower silver content than sterling.
British hallmarks
British silver usually carries a group of small stamps:
- Standard mark: a walking lion shows sterling. A figure of Britannia shows a higher standard of silver.
- Assay office mark: shows where the piece was tested, such as a leopard's head for London, an anchor for Birmingham and a crown, later a rose, for Sheffield.
- Date letter: a letter in a shaped shield that shows the year it was marked. The letter's font and shield shape change with each cycle, so look it up in a hallmark reference for the right assay office.
- Maker's mark: usually initials in a shield.
- Duty mark: a monarch's head appears on many pieces from the late 18th and 19th centuries.
Other countries
Many countries used numbers for silver content in parts per thousand, such as 800, 830, 835 or 900, which are lower than sterling but still solid silver. Some countries had their own symbols: German silver of a certain era often shows a crescent moon and crown next to the number, and French silver uses a series of official marks, including a head of Minerva on many pieces. Older Russian silver may show the number 84, an old measure of purity. Look up unfamiliar marks in a reference before drawing conclusions.
Marks that mean silverplate
- EP, EPNS, EPC or EPBM: electroplated, usually on nickel silver, copper or Britannia metal.
- "Silverplate", "Quadruple Plate", "Triple Plate" or A1: plating grades or descriptions.
- "Nickel silver" or "German silver": an alloy that contains no silver at all.
- Numbers that look like dates: some plated brands include a year in their name, such as 1847, which is not the date the piece was made.
Some 19th-century makers of plated wares used small symbols that imitate British hallmarks. If the marks look like hallmarks but there is no recognizable lion, assay office and date letter, it may be plate.
Weighted pieces
Candlesticks, compotes and some bowls are often marked "Weighted" or "Reinforced". These have a thin silver shell filled with another material for stability, so only a small part of their weight is silver. Do not judge them by their weight on a scale.
Simple checks that do not damage anything
- Look for wear: on plated pieces, a copper or yellowish base metal often shows through on high points and edges.
- Use a magnet: silver is not magnetic. A strong pull suggests a steel or other magnetic base, though not being magnetic does not prove a piece is silver.
- Avoid acid and scratch tests on pieces you plan to sell. Ask a jeweler or appraiser to test instead.
Fake and misleading marks
Marks can be faked, and silver-colored items from many places are stamped 925 without being sterling. Red flags include crude or blurry stamps, marks in unusual places, hallmarks that do not match each other, and a piece that seems light or worn through on the edges. Have anything important checked by a professional.
Photograph it for a scan and a listing
- The whole piece on a plain, neutral background in soft daylight.
- The marks, close up and sharp, with light angled across them.
- Any monogram, dents, repairs or worn areas.
When to get an appraisal
For large sets of sterling flatware, pieces from known silversmiths, antique hallmarked silver and anything with unclear marks, ask an independent appraiser or a specialist silver dealer. If you are thinking of selling for scrap, compare that with what the piece could fetch as a usable or decorative item first; well-designed pieces can be worth more intact.
Where WorthAI fits
WorthAI identifies the likely item, maker and pattern from a photo, gives an estimated worth with a range and a suggested asking price, reads buyer demand and shows the marketplace listings behind the estimate. Add a close-up of the marks if WorthAI asks for more detail, or tap Refine Result. WorthAI cannot test metal content, so confirm sterling with the marks above and a professional test.
Frequently asked questions
What does 925 on silver mean?
It means the item is meant to be 92.5 percent silver, the sterling standard. Marks can be faked, so treat it as a strong clue and confirm important pieces with a professional.
How can I tell sterling silver from silverplate?
Look for marks such as Sterling, 925 or British hallmarks for solid silver, and EP, EPNS, Silverplate or Quadruple Plate for plated pieces. Wear showing a different metal underneath also points to plate.
What does weighted mean on silver?
A weighted piece has a thin silver shell filled with another material. Only a small part of its weight is silver, so it is not valued by weight.
Should I sell sterling silver for scrap?
Compare first. Plain or damaged pieces may be best sold for metal value, but sets and pieces from known makers can be worth more as usable silver. Get more than one offer.