The short answer
Some are, but most old games sell for a little rather than a lot. Popular titles were made in huge numbers, so sports games, games bundled with a console and big bestsellers are easy to find and usually cheap. A much smaller group, often made in limited quantities or chased by collectors, can be worth more than the rest of the pile combined. The job is to find those few before you sell everything as one lot.
Sort the pile first
Sort before you research. Group games by console, which is printed on the cartridge label, the disc or the case spine. Then split each console's games by completeness:
- Loose: the cartridge or disc on its own.
- Boxed: the game with its box or case, but without the manual or inserts.
- Complete in box: the game, its original box or case, the manual and any inserts it came with.
- New or sealed: never opened and still in the original factory seal.
Keep each game with its own case and manual. Buyers notice a disc in the wrong box.
What makes a game valuable
- Platform. Consoles that sold less or had short lives often had smaller print runs, and some systems have more active collectors.
- Print run. Games from small publishers, limited editions and titles made in small quantities are harder to find later.
- Franchise demand. Long-running series with nostalgic fans keep attracting buyers, so even common entries can sell steadily.
- Late-life releases. Games released after a newer console had arrived were often produced in smaller numbers, because most players had already moved on.
- Condition. Torn labels, writing, price stickers, cracked cases and scratched discs all pull the value down.
Re-releases matter too. Budget reprints, often marked with a different label colour or a banner on the case, are usually worth less than the original print of the same game. Check the label and case before you assume you have the original.
Loose vs complete in box
Many older cartridge games came in cardboard boxes with paper manuals that were thrown away or damaged, so complete copies are scarcer than the cartridges. That is why the same game can sell for noticeably more when complete, especially with a box in good shape. Disc cases survived better, but the original case, cover art and manual still matter, and a replacement case is worth less.
When you check prices, compare loose with loose and complete with complete; an average that mixes them is misleading. Inspect boxes for crushing, tears and fading, manuals for missing pages or writing, and mention any faults when you sell.
Consoles and accessories
Consoles are valued by exact model, not just by name. Find the model number, usually on a label underneath or on the back, because revisions and special editions can sell for different amounts. Then check:
- Does it work? Power it on, load a game, and check the picture, sound and saving. "Tested and working" usually sells for more than "untested".
- What is included? Original controllers, the power supply, video cables and the box all add value. Note whether controllers are official or third-party.
- Condition. Yellowed plastic, missing battery covers, sticky buttons, drifting analogue sticks and scratched handheld screens all lower the price.
- Modifications. If a console has been modded, repaired or had parts replaced, say so clearly in the listing.
Memory cards, official controllers and less common add-ons can sell well on their own, so check them separately.
Regional versions, variants and reproductions
Many games were released separately in North America, Europe and Japan, with different packaging and sometimes different content. Region affects value and who will buy, because some consoles only play their own region's games. Compare with sales of the same regional version. Variants count too: label designs, first prints versus later prints, and limited editions can all be priced differently.
Reproduction cartridges and copied discs are common for valuable titles. Warning signs include:
- A label that looks blurry, too glossy, slightly the wrong size or uses the wrong font.
- A shell with the wrong colour or texture, the wrong screws, or missing moulded markings compared with a known original.
- A disc whose underside does not match a confirmed original. Recordable discs often have a blue, green or gold tint, but some originals are coloured too: original PlayStation discs are black underneath, and many PlayStation 2 CD games are blue. Some fakes are also made on black discs, so colour alone proves nothing.
- A price that looks far too good for a game known to be valuable.
Compare your copy with photos of confirmed originals. No single sign proves a game is genuine, so if a valuable game still looks doubtful, ask a specialist retailer or experienced collector. For many cartridge systems a specialist can open the shell and compare the circuit board with an original, which is a stronger check than the outside alone. Sealed games can be resealed, so treat high-value sealed copies with extra care.
Never sell a reproduction or copied disc as an original. Marketplaces often do not allow unauthorised copies at all, so check the rules before you list one.
Check what the same copy actually sold for
Asking prices are what sellers hope to get, and expensive listings can sit for months without selling. Look at completed sales instead: search for the title, platform and region, then filter to sold items. Our guide on how to see sold listings on eBay walks through the filters, and sold versus active listings explains why the two differ.
Match the exact copy: platform, region, print and completeness. Open the listing photos to confirm what was included, drop the outliers and look at where most recent sales cluster. Price-tracking sites can show trends, but check the individual sales behind any figure.
Sell one by one, as a lot, or trade in?
- One by one: usually the most money per game, but you list, pay fees on and post each one. Worth it for games with real value.
- As a lot: fast and simple for common games. Lot buyers are often resellers who expect a discount, so pull out the valuable games first.
- Trade-in: the quickest option, but a shop needs a margin, so offers are typically well below private sale prices and are sometimes store credit.
- Local sale: no postage or packing, but you arrange meetings and buyers tend to haggle.
Before you choose, work out what you keep after fees and postage. On a cheap game, selling costs can eat most of the price, which makes a lot or a trade-in the sensible choice.
Where WorthAI fits
WorthAI identifies a game, console or accessory from a photo, estimates a value range and shows the marketplace listings behind it, so you can check the evidence yourself. It is a quick way to work through a pile and spot what deserves a closer look. If the match is wrong, tap Refine Result. A photo cannot confirm the region, the print, the manual inside or whether a cartridge is genuine, so confirm those details before you buy, sell or set a price.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my old video games are worth money?
Sort them by console and completeness, then look up recent sold prices for the same title, platform, region and completeness. Games with small print runs, strong collector demand or complete original packaging are the most likely to stand out.
Are loose cartridges worth less than complete games?
Usually, yes. Original boxes and manuals were often thrown away, so complete copies are scarcer. Compare loose sales with loose sales and complete sales with complete sales.
Should I sell my old games as a bundle?
Bundles are quick for common games, but buyers usually expect a discount. Check each game first, sell the valuable ones individually and bundle the rest.